Tait The Ball Buster, Barossa Valley, Australia 2017

Perhaps unsurprisingly from the name, this isn't a timid wine. Comprised mostly of Shiraz with some Cab and a bit of Merlot, it's a high-octane bottling that scrapes 16% alcohol. The nose offers ultraripe cherry and currant fruits backed by vanillin oak, baking spice and savory herbs. Heat from the alcohol can be felt on the palate. Tannins are granular in texture. While the fruit seems fresher than the nose implies, acidity feels somewhat shrill and forced. Christina Pickard