Aubry Premier Cru Brut, Champagne, France NV

This family-owned grower is based in Jouy-lès-Reims at the western end of the Montagne de Reims. The two brothers, Pierre and Philippe, have produced a soft, balanced wine from premier cru vineyards, which is tantalizingly poised on the knife edge between freshness and richness. Apples and cream flavors round the wine very satisfactorily.